Adjustable pattern-plate for garments



(No Model.) I 2 SheetS- -Sheet'I, J. S. 8a M. E. BAUGHMAN. ADJUSTABLE- PATTERN PLA TE FOR GARMENTS.

m I; Z k W m 3% a m H 2 w m N. PETERS. Photo-Lithographer, minimum ac.

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2. J. S. 85 M. HBAUGHMAN.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN PLATE FOR GARMENTS.

. Patented Feb. 25, 1890.

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' JACOB S. BAUGHMAN AND MELVINA E. BAUGHMAN, OF BURLINGTON, IOWA.

' UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN-PLATE FOR GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 422,282, dated February 25, 1890.

Application filed June 6, 1889. Serial No. 313,296- (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that we, JACOB S. BAUGHMAN and MELVINA E. BAUGHMAN, citizens of the United States of America, residing at Bur lington, in the county of Des Moines and State of Iowa, have invented certain new and -plates for garments; and it consists in the improvements hereinafter fully described and set forth, whereby a series of forms are provided which are severally designed to conform to the different portions of the body, and each form consisting of a series of sections or templets shaped and movably connected together, to the end that they may be adjusted to accord with the body of the person measured at the point where said form is to be used, the graduations or scales on the templets of each form being peculiarly arranged and disposed, for a purpose to be hereinafter fully explained.

In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a view of the form from which the front of a waist is to be cut. Fig. 2 is a view of the form for the back. Fig. 3 is a View of the under arm form; Fig. 4, a View of the side-form, and Fig. 5 is a view of thesleeve-form.

As above stated in general terms, each form consists of a series of templets pivotally connected where only a pivotal movement is necessary, and attached by a slot and engaging device where it is desirable to have a movement of one templet relative to the other. The templets of each for m are so shaped and disposed that they may beadjusted to meet the requirements at the particular point of the body where said form is to be used.

As the general arrangement and disposition of templets and their connections are mechanically similar, it will only be necessary to describe the front form at length and then advert briefly to the other forms in order to comprehend the relative arrangement and purpose of all.

A refers to the main templet of the front form, having a horizontal slot at across the upper portion thereof, adjacent to which are arranged a series of numbered divisionmarks, as shown. The downwardly-extending portions of the templet A intermediately form portions of the darts, and are provided with slots at to a inclusive, adjacent to one or more of which is located a numbered scale. A templet A is connected to templet A by a sliding metallic connection, and is provided with a slot a substantially in line with slot a. The movement of this templet A indicates by the scale adjacent to the slot a the height of the dart from its Widest part, while the front offset portion of this templet coacts with the vertical scale on section A", adjustably connected to section A, to indicate the full front measure. Pivotally-connected cross-templet A and vertical smaller templets A A complete the dart portions, while templets A to A", inclusive, are similarly adjustable, and have scales and movements designed to furnish, respectively, the waist and under arm measure. Additional templets A A A A and A are connected and graduated to furnish the arm-scye and neck measures, as will be quite apparent from an inspection of the drawings.

The templets B to B inclusive, of the back-form, Fig. 2, have their slots 1) to 19 in elusive, so disposed and graduated that the neck, shoulder, bust, back, under-arm, and waist measure may be separately taken in so far as it is requisite to use said bacleform. The templets O to 0 inclusive, of the under-arm form, Fig. 3, have their slots 0 to 0 inclusive, fastening devices, and scales so disposed that the under-arm, arm-scye, and

waist measures may be secured in so far as it is requisite to employ the said under-arm form. The templets D to D inclusive, of the side-form, Fig. 4, have their slots at to 01 inclusive, fastening devices, and scales so disposed that the arm-scye, under-arm, and

waist measures can be secured in the same relative manner as in the other forms.

The sleeve-form is made up of fifteen tem Ice illustrated in Fig. 5. i This form E consists of the templet E, provided with an extended or projecting portion having a slot 6, adjacent to which are indicating marks and numerals, this said templet E being also provided with slots 6 6 also having indicatingmarks accompanied by the words Length of sleeve, the word Elbow-measure being adjacent to the slot (2. In setting the adjacent templcts for these measures the securing devices are placed at the desired indicating-marks by sliding the adjacent templets beneath the templet E. An angular templet E has a slot 6 so that it can be slid upon the projecting portion of the templet E, and to this templet E templets E and E are pivotally connected, the latter having a longitudinal slot e*. A templet E has a slot c and is connected at its outer lower corner to the templet E by a pivotal connectiomsaid templet having a slot 0, and adjacent to its inner end a notch or offset, near which is printed the word \Vrist-measure, said templet E being adapted to be moved upon the templet E, having a scale or gage mark, so that the templet E can be adjusted upon templet E to give the proper wristnneasure. The templet E ispivotally secured at its outer end to the templet E, said tern plet being adj ustable upon the templet E by means of the fastening devices and slots 6 and 0 These are all the essential. parts required to form the lower part of the sleeve, or that portion located below the elbow.

The templet is provided with slots c e, indicating-figures being adjacent to the slot a This templet is connected adjustably upon the templet-s E E by fastening devices which pass through the slots c and. c,and also by the fastening device which connects one end of the templet E with the slot c", the opposite end of this templet being pivotally attached to near the upper portion of the templet E on its inner side, where it is provided with an oilset.

To the outer corner of the templet E is pivotally secured a templet E", having a slot 0, and upon this templet are printed the words Arm-scye measure, adjacent to the point registering with the numerals and indicatingmarks upon the templet E near to the slot e formed therein. The opposite end of the templet E from where the sliding fastening devices are attached is pivotally connected to the templet E, and this templet has a slot 6 by which it is connected to the templet E to slide thereon.

The templet E hereinbeforc referred to, is provided concentric with the pivotal connection at its outer edge with a segmental slot e through which passes a connection having a washer, and radiating from the outer pivotal connection are aseries of lines with indicatingunarks, the word Pest-numbers being printed on the templet E adjacent thereto.

The templet E is pivotally connected. to

the templet. E, having a slot c the templet E being provided with a slot eh By this construction it will be readily seen that the parts can be moved upon each other to make the proper adjustments, the arm-scye measure being secured from the form illustrated in Fig. 1, the templets E and E being placed so that the sliding device will serve as an indicator, and when they are located opposite the proper numbers and indicatingmarks the necessary configuration will be given to the form to present the required pattern. "When these templets are properly set, the test-numbers and end of the templet E will register.

The templet E near its lower edge, is provided with a line, and in cutting the pattern it should be seen that the upper edge of the templet E registers with this line. To set this form for a sleeve it is desirable to first adjust the lower inside end to the required length of sleeve, then set the outside so that the wrist-piece will be straight with the line crossing templet E and then set the upper part of form to required length of sleeve, and next to size of arm and arm-scye and wrist. In setting form to arin-scye measure, also set test part so that the edge of templet E will touch the line on which occurs the number corresponding to the size or measure of arnl-scye, and then set at elbow. Now draft around out side for upper part of sleeve. In drafting around under part of sleeve, when thelatter is to have a gathered elbow, draft from inside of templets E, E, E, E, and E. In drafting an ordinary sleeve do so from the templets E, E, and The form is reversed to draft the top or under part of sleeve. By this sleeve-pattern we are enabled to draft two radically-different styles of sleeves without changing the measurements or adjusting the parts. The outline of the form is practically unbroken, except for a very short distance at the center and for the under part of sleeve, and this form, when properly set, insures a perfect fit of the sleeve to the eyelet of the arm.

From the preceding description, together with the accompanying drawings, it will be readily seen that the divisions of the different scales for the different measures are based. on the difierent aliquot parts of an inch. For instance, the scales on. the different forms employed for ascertaining the neckuneasure have their divisions all based on the corresponding aliquot parts of an inch, but differ in quality from the divisions of the corre* sponding scales of each of the several other measures.

In using the front form the templets A. and A are relatively adjusted until the up per edge of. the former templet registers with the number on the templet A indicating the neck-measure. hen this adj ustment is secured, in the further operation of fitting the back form, Fig 2, it will only be neces* sary to adjust the templet B on the templet IIO 13 so that the edge of the former templet will register with the division on the templet 13 corresponding with the registered number for the same measure on the front form. The sum total of these several scales referring to the same measure will then indicate the complete measure in inches.

The front form, Fig. l, carries a vertical scale in complete inches for the front measurement, since this form is allthat is required in computing such measurement. Of course in ascertaining any other of the different measurements the adjustment of one form to indicate that particular measurement thereon is all that is required in order to enable the other forms to be correspondingly adjusted to co-operate in securing the complete measure.

After the several forms have been adjusted, as described, they are used as pattermplates for marking or cutting out the fabric.

In connecting the parts where pivotal connections are required we make use of ordinary eyelets, which sufficiently secure the parts to each other and allow pivotal movement of the templets upon each other when desired, and a sliding movement when such eyelets are provided with washers. In the templets where the slots lie over each other they are secured by ordinary paper-fasteners-such as are known to the trade as McGills, or other equivalent fasteners, this style being preferred, as by bending the parts upon each other sufficient frictional contact between the templets can be secured,

Among the many advantages of the construction hereinbefore referred to it may be stated that the templets upon which the dartplates are formed are stationary, the measures are to a great extent automatic, or indicated automatically, and that the smaller sizes are always on the inside of the points measured, and a better fit and more artistic shape of garment is provided by having the slots and adjustments below the waist-line and a pivot at the point of the waist-line adjacent to the upper ends of the templets A A The inclined slot at the bust-measure is also an essential feature and insures a proper fit and artistic finish of the garment.

1. The combination of the several forms shaped as described and independently composed of a series of adjustable templets provided with scales for the different measures, the divisions of the several scales representing the aliquot parts of an inch, of a quality proportionate with its particular movement, the divisionson the different forms referring to the same measure being of corresponding quality, so that the several forms can be set from the measure primarily secured on the first form, and the total result of adjustment of the forms with relation to the same measure will represent the total result in inches, together with connecting and adjusting devices, substantially as set forth.

2. The combination,in a sleeve-pattermwith the templets forming the outline for the measure for the upper portion of the arm, of two templets E and E, pivoted to each other near their outer edges, and within said pivotal connection having a slot and sliding connection, one of said parts being provided with lines which radiate from a point adjacent to the pivotal connection of the templets E and E said lines, in connection with the end of the adjacent templet, forming a test gage or measure for ascertaining the proper set of the templets adjacent thereto, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof we atfix our signatures in presence of two witnesses.

JACOB S. BAUGHMAN. MELVINA E. BAUGHMAN. Witnesses:

G. S. ELLIOTT, E. W. J orrNsoN'. 

